Sunday, January 1, 2012

Riveted Infill Plane



Pinned plate planes are relatively easy to make. My little rebate palm plane could be made in a couple of days if you kept at it full time. I had made a rough and ready version many years ago and it has served me well. The idea with the new version was simply to remake the same plane so that it was comfortable to use for extended periods.
The finished plane


















I have some history with plane making over the years. I made my first dovetailed infill plane in about 1995 but I find it too heavy to use. I should have made a more useful size. I have also made a couple of small pinned plate planes which I use all the time. It all started with a book written by Jim Kingshott called "Making and Modifying Woodworking Tools" which was given to me as a present.

Some of my previous plane making attempts

















The side plates were rough cut from 3mm plate steel with my bandsaw and and filed to shape. The sole, nose and clamp fulcrum were cut from flat bar. The sole edge and sides were lapped to form the blade seat with the outside surface left rough. The assembly was clamped together and multiple 2.5mm pin holes drilled through each infill component.



I've used coat hanger wire which is 2.5mm and very soft so it's easy to peen. After the metal components were riveted I have cut jarrah infill and squirrel tail. The blade is the same modified 25mm paring chisel I used in the original rebate plane.

Now for the hard graft. After filing the plane body to shape the plane sides and sole are lapped flat and square. I have a 500mm square plate and use wet and dry emery paper with an oil lubricant. The block of wood is used to hold the paper down and to have a square edge to run the plane along. This where I discovered a slight bend in the plane body so it took a while. I can only assume that when I lapped the steel infill blocks they were not parallel. I was concerned that by lapping them flat an removing the bend I was also removing the rivet head. So far they have held together.



The lever cap was cut from a 6mm flat bar, filed to shape and an M6 hole tapped. The thumbscrew was turned from brass bar and knurled. I'm hoping to engrave the top of the thumbscrew at a later date.



Here are a couple of great reference pages
http://www.petermcbride.com/oldtools/
http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com/